“I’m not going to deny myself the simple pleasure of a platter of cacio e pepe, eaten standing up at the kitchen counter moments after I’ve grated the pecorino. I’m going to stab my fork into that pillowy stack of pancakes. I’m going to run to the bakery first thing in the morning and buy a baguette still warm from the oven and I’m going to close my eyes as I listen to that mouthwatering ccccccrack as I tear off the end.”